A woman stands on a stone wall in a mountain valley with her arms raised, wearing a pink and white sports top, black shorts, and running shoes under a bright blue sky.

Wales Itinerary:

Ogwen Valley

Ogwen Valley sits in the heart of Snowdonia, nestled between two mighty mountain ranges: the Glyderau and the Carneddau. Tryfan's jagged north peak stands guard over the whole valley the entire time you're there.

Five minutes down the road from Yr Wyddfa, or Snowdon, this valley has half the tourists but double the views.

This is my perfected itinerary for a short but sweet trip to the Ogwen Valley.

Contents:

  • Day 1
  • Day 2
  • Optional extras
  • Packing list

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Why Ogwen over Snowdon?

Snowdon is the highest mountain in Wales and the highest in Britain south of the Scottish Highlands. Therefore, it's on everyone's bucket list, making it very busy.

Now, don't get me wrong, you've got to do it at least once. However, it'll quickly get old: the struggle to park, people walking into you constantly, and the list goes on.

Ogwen gives you the same drama, just in a different way. Sharp ridgelines, huge lakes and rolling emerald fields, all without the crowds.

So, if you want a quieter, more well-rounded getaway, this is for you.

Day 1: Hiking, picnics and camping

Head to Ogwen Cottage, at the Llyn Ogwen car park. Aim for before 9am, especially on clear days and weekends.

From here, head up the stair path towards Llyn Idwal. You can stop here, either for a picnic or to set up camp on the shore.

It does get windy here, so consider this your prior warning.

Llyn Idwal is breathtaking: twilight-blue, rippling waves crashing against the pebbled shore, the sound of pebbles shifting, the breeze through the long blades of grass, and fluffy clouds intertwining all around you.

The path climbs all the way up into the mountain range above: the Glyderau ridge, with Tryfan's east face keeping you company the whole way up.

This range is filled with beautiful pitches for a night beneath clear skies glistening with hundreds of stars.

A few things to note

Wild camping is tolerated, although not technically legal, in most of upland Snowdonia, including this valley. Pitch late, leave early and leave no trace.

Always treat your water appropriately. The streams and waterfalls here have never caused issues for me after treating the water, but remember to check the area and choose your source carefully.

This valley funnels wind aggressively, so follow these general guidelines:

  • Pitch low.
  • Use every guy line.
  • Pitch the lowest or narrowest part of the tent into the wind.
  • Expect the weather to pick up overnight, regardless of forecast.

Day 2: Wild swimming and sightseeing

Whether you camped on the ridge or by Llyn Idwal, climb back down towards the car park.

Depending on how you feel and your experience level, summiting Tryfan is an incredible experience. It's a Grade 1 scramble, so it isn't for the faint-hearted.

The summit has one of the best views I've ever seen: lakes, the valley floor stretching on for miles, and two huge mountain ranges towering over it all.

As I said, Tryfan is optional. It isn't easy and requires skill. If you decide to skip it, here's what to do instead.

Stop at Ogwen Waterfall, just a couple of minutes down the road (not to be confused with Ogwen Cottage, where you started). There's a small plunge pool beneath the bridge, but if you follow the path from the road down the cascading falls, you'll eventually reach a huge pool at the base of the waterfall.

Hardly anyone knows it's there. It's hidden in the trees, with nothing in sight but water, fields and the river winding down through the valley.

If you're brave, this is the perfect spot for a wild swim. In the summer it's extremely refreshing. When it isn't hot, however, it's brisk to say the least.

A few things to note

  • Roadside parking is limited, so get there early.
  • The nearest towns for supplies are Bethesda and Betws-y-Coed.
  • The walk isn't technical, but check OS Maps or Komoot for accurate data for each hike.
  • Check forecasts on Mountain Forecast.

Optional extras

This is an ideal plan for a couple of days in the Ogwen Valley. For a few more ideas, here are some of my favourite things to do in the area:

  • Take a circular walk around Llyn Ogwen and learn about the rich history in this area.
  • Head towards Nant Peris for more accessible hill and waterfall walks.
  • Head into Betws-y-Coed for a bite to eat and a walk along the river.

Packing List

Shelter and sleep

Water and food

Clothing

Other essentials